This white borscht, a nod to the tradition of sour soups in Ukrainian cooking, is simply a perfect meal: rich and satisfying, yet bright and delicate and clean all at once. It's given its distinct tang up front, by soaking a hunk of sourdough bread in the simmering broth, and also at the end, by whisking in a little crème fraiche before serving. At the center is the delicious, subtle, complex broth.
The better the kielbasa, the better the broth, obviously, and it's worth using the whole garland for that complex smoky seasoning it imparts. There will be extra for snacking. Chopped dill keeps it all bright and fresh and lively in the mouth. A year-round classic to have in your repertoire, it's especially beloved in colder months. When weather forecasters announce a dismal spell of sleeting days in a row, you'll think, oh, good! White Bosch weather!
Ingredients
- 2 1/2 pounds full horseshoe link of high quality smoked kielbasa
- 5 fresh bay leaves
- 3 lbs. leeks (six long, lively leaks)
- 3 lbs. russet potatoes
- 1 cup unsalted butter two sticks
- 1 large yellow onion, small diced, about two cups
- 6 garlic cloves minced
- Kosher salt, such as Diamond Crystal
- 1 (4 ounce) hunk of dense, very sour sourdough bread, crusts removed
- One full tablespoon finely ground black pepper
- 1/2 cup crème fraiche
- 1 bunch fresh dill, woody stems removed, fronds minced
Instructions
Step 1: Cut kielbasa into four equal lengths, and cover in a pot with three quarts cold water and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then let gently boil for 25 minutes more until swollen and cooked through and beads of oil have formed. Pull sausages from the now smoky and seasoned water, and set aside. Save that water!
Step 2: While the kielbasa simmers, split leeks in half lengthwise, then soak and rinse in cold water to thoroughly remove all sand. Slice leaks into 3/8 in. half moons from whites to dark greens, as far up as viable.
Step 3: Peel potatoes, trim all four sides to stabilize on the cutting board and trim both ends to "box" the potato. Save the scraps. Cut the boxes into large cubes, about 3/4-in square.
Step 4: In a sturdy soup pot, melt one stick butter over low heat until foaming. Stir in onion, garlic and a healthy pinch of salt, and let them sweat for a full five minutes until translucent.
Step 5: Stir in remaining butter, the sliced leeks and another generous pinch of salt, then let sweat slowly over low heat for 8 minutes until moist, bright green and glossy.
Step 6: Add potato scraps, the cube of bread and half the kielbasa boiling liquid. Let gently simmer 10 minutes while the potato scrap softens and the bread hunk becomes flabby and swollen. If you need to increase the heat to get a little simmer going, do so.
Step 7: Meanwhile, slice kielbasa in half lengthwise. Place two pieces back into the soup pot as is, and then slice the remaining six pieces into very thin 1/8 inch half moons, and set aside.
Step 8: Retrieve the soggy lump of sourdough bread with a slotted spoon, and don't worry if you also get a few bits of leek or onion or whatever is floating in the soup when you pull it out. Also remove about 1 cup of liquid, and set aside.
Step 9: Add potato cubes and the rest of the kielbasa liquid to the pot. Add another pinch of salt and half the black pepper. Let it come back to temperature, and then to simmer until potatoes are cooked through, about 25 minutes more.
Step 10: Using either a stick blender or a traditional blender, puree the sodden hunk of bread until foamy, using some of the liquid you pulled in step 8 if needed. Stir this back into the soup pot once the potatoes are cooked through, and add the sliced kielbasa as well.
Step 11: Whisk the crème fraiche with one half cup of the hot reserved liquid. Stir mixture into the soup. Stir in the chopped dill and the remaining 1/2 tablespoon pepper. Serve very hot.
